Why you should grow wildflowers in your garden
Table of Contents
Recently their has been a lot of reports by various outlets of the media regarding the decline of bee numbers. Bees are important pollinators that play a vital role in every aspect of the ecosystem.
They pollinate the food humans require to survive and also support the growth of plants which provide a habitat for other forms of wildlife. For more information on the role of bees, why they are disappearing and what we can do to help please visit our bees page.
Growing a small area of wildflowers is the perfect way of encouraging bees and other pollinators into your garden. On top of encouraging a diverse mixture of wildlife into your garden, they add colour and look stunning when they are in flower during the summer months.
Wildflowers require very little maintenance (once established), they are only cut 2/3 times a year and they don’t require any feed (as they perform better on nutrient deficient soils).
Also no irrigation is required once they have established, however, it may be needed, during the initial stages of establishment. Once they are established no watering is required, as wildflowers tolerate extremely dry soil conditions.
Selecting a site for wildflowers
A couple of things will play a big part in the successful establishment of your wildflower meadow or garden. For this reason you will need to choose a suitable area to get optimum results. Wildflowers perform better when they are grown on very poor soils lacking in nutrition. They also require a large amount of sunlight, so it is important to choose a suitable area.
A nutrient deficient soil – As we have just mentioned, choose an impoverished area, lacking in soil fertility. Soils rich in nutrients are likely to yield poor results, as there will be to much competition from aggressive, coarse grasses, which thrive on fertile soils.
If you choose to convert a grassy area into a wildflower meadow and grass growth is generally strong then it’s very likely the soil is fertile and may not be suitable. On waste or bare ground the presence of nettles or docks could mean a soil is fertile and should be avoided. If you don’t have the luxury of suitable soil there are some alternative options:
1. You can remove the topsoil, leaving the subsoil exposed, which should be more suitable for establishing wildflowers.
2. Sow a cornfield annual mixture, which will be better suited to fertile soil conditions, than a perennial seed mixture.
3. Introduce yellow rattle into the seed mixture. Yellow rattle is a semi-parasitic wildflower which weakens coarse grasses by attaching itself to the grass roots and drawing nutrients from them.
An area of the garden that receives ample sunlight – Wildflowers require a sunlight to grow successfully. This doesn’t mean they require constant sunlight, but they do need to be in an area of the garden that is exposed to the sun.
If this is going to be problematic you may want to choose a mixture that will perform well on shaded sites. The other alternative is to remove any trees, branched, sheds that may be blocking the light.
Perennial or annual wildflowers
Wildflowers fall into two groups, perennials and annuals. As their name suggests annuals flower for a single season, they then need to be resown or they can self seed (once a seed bank has built up) to return in subsequent years.
Perennials don’t flower in the first year, but will flower year after year after the initial year of sowing, even when they have been cut back. Annuals will perform better than perennials on fertile soils, as perennials prefer poor, nutrient deficient sites.
It is common for both of them to be included in the same seed mixtures, so the annuals flower in the first season with the perennials flowering in the following seasons.
How to create a seedbed for sowing wildflowers
Once you are happy with your choice of site (an area that is deficient in nutrient and also receives ample sunlight), you will need to prepare the ground for seeding. Any existing vegetation will need removing, this can be done in a couple of ways.
The area can be dug over to a depth of 15 cm, with the vegetation being removed. Another method is to use a rotavator to a depth of 15 cm, again removing the vegetation.
Alternatively the chosen area can be sprayed with a total herbicide that contains glyphosate. Avoid using glyphosate on windy days and take care near ponds, waterways and non-target plants. Once the vegetation has died, it can be removed and the area, again should be cultivated to a depth of about 15 cm.
Once this task has been completed the soil should be worked and broken down to create a suitable tilth for seeding. It is important to carry out this task under suitable ground conditions. Avoid doing it when the soil is too wet.
It should also be noted that, by cultivating and creating a new seedbed, you are likely to awaken existing weed seeds present in the soil, which will need to be addressed. One method is let the ground fallow for a while following preparation, this will encourage the seed bank to germinate, thus enabling you to control the weeds prior to seeding.
The above video has some useful tips on creating a seedbed and sowing wildflower seed.
Seed mixtures with or without grasses
Wildflower seed mixtures are available with or without grasses. There are a couple of reasons why you may want / not want to include grasses into you seed mixture.
Grasses give a more natural backdrop to wildflowers, especially when they are not fully in flower. While on smaller areas wildflowers can look great on their own, however, on larger areas the inclusion of non-aggressive grasses give a more natural appearance.
Grasses are also used as a nurse crop, especially when mixed with perennial wildflower mixtures. As it takes perennials a couple of seasons to establish, the inclusion of non-aggressive grasses help prevent the invasion of coarser, more aggressive grasses.
These coarse grasses will out-compete the wildflowers and their success rate will be reduced. Again this is more important on larger sites, where hand management and weeding is not practical. On smaller areas, it may be possible to hand weed any coarse grasses and unwanted weeds as they appear.
How & when to sow wildflowers
Generally speaking there are a couple of windows in the gardening calendar for sowing wildflowers. These are late September/October or March/April, although seed can be sown when there is sufficient warmth and moisture in the ground. If your soil is free draining, then the autumn period would be preferable, on wetter heavier soils then spring time is preferable.
Once you are happy with your seedbed and it is free of any unwanted vegetation, you are ready to apply the seed mixture.Wildflower seed application rates are very low, about 1.5 gms per sq/m for pure seed and 4 gms per sq/m for a wildflower and grass mixture.
For this reason it is advisable to bulk the seed up and mix it with some sand to help make the application easier. It can also be applied at twice at half the sowing rates, with the second application being at a 90 degree difference in direction from the initial pass. Ideally the seed should be applied when there is some moisture in the ground, it doesn’t want to be too dry or too wet.
Once the seed has been applied, it can be lightly raked into the surface and given a light roll. If you don’t own a roller, you can simply walk over the whole of the seed bed. All you are trying to do is help the seed come into contact with the soil to increase the chances of successful germination.
Aftercare and maintenance of wildflowers
Once the seed has been sown there is very little to do in the short term, except wait for the seeds to germinate. However if it is very dry and rainfall is minimal, then the occasional watering will help, but avoid saturating the seedbed.
Once the seed emerges the maintenance program will vary slightly dependant on when the seed was sown and which type of wildflowers were sown.
Perennial Mixtures
Autumn Sown
First year of sowing
March Mow at 50 mm, if there is enough growth. Remove the clippings.
April Mow at 50 mm, if there is enough growth. Remove the clippings. Irrigate if conditions are very dry (avoid saturating the soil).
May Mow at 50 mm, if there is enough growth, again remove the clippings. Irrigate if conditions are very dry (avoid saturating the soil).
September / October Once flowering has finished, mow at 50 mm, don’t remove the clipping for several days. This will allow any seed to return to the ground. The clippings can then be removed.
If the clippings are not removed, they will add to the fertility of the soil, which we want to avoid.
Following years
March / April If there is enough growth, mow at 50 mm. Remove the clippings.
October Once flowering has finished, mow at 50 mm, don’t remove the clipping for several days. This will allow any seed to return to the ground. The clippings can then be removed.
Spring Sown Mixture
4 – 6 weeks after sowing Mow at 50 mm, if there is enough growth. Remove the clippings. Irrigate if conditions are very dry (avoid saturating the soil)
May Mow at 50 mm, if there is enough growth. Remove the clippings. Irrigate if conditions are very dry (avoid saturating the soil)
October Once flowering has finished, mow at 50 mm, don’t remove the clipping for several days. This will allow any seed to return to the ground. The clippings can then be removed.
Following years
March / April If there is enough growth, mow at 50 mm. Remove the clippings.
October Once flowering has finished, mow at 50 mm, don’t remove the clipping for several days. This will allow any seed to return to the ground. The clippings can then be removed.
Annual & Perennial and straight Perennial Mixtures
Autumn Sown mixtures
March / April If there is enough growth, mow at 50 mm. Remove the clippings. Irrigate if conditions are very dry (avoid saturating the soil)
October Once flowering has finished, mow at 50 mm, don’t remove the clipping for several days. This will allow any seed to return to the ground. The clippings can then be removed.
Following years
March / April If there is enough growth, mow at 50 mm. Remove the clippings.
October Once flowering has finished, mow at 50 mm, don’t remove the clipping for several days. This will allow any seed to return to the ground. The clippings can then be removed.
Spring Sown Mixture
August to October Once flowering has finished, mow at 50 mm, don’t remove the clipping for several days. This will allow any seed to return to the ground. The clippings can then be removed. (Spring sown mixtures regularly flower later in the season than autumn sown mixtures).
Following years
March / April If there is enough growth, mow at 50 mm. Remove the clippings.
October Once flowering has finished, mow at 50 mm, don’t remove the clipping for several days. This will allow any seed to return to the ground. The clippings can then be removed.
Alternatives to seeding
Although seed is by the most common and cost effective way of creating a wildflower meadow, there are a couple of alternatives, namely plugging and laying turf.
Plugging is another method of creating a wildflower meadow. A hole is simply made in the ground, the pugs pushed in, firmed around and watered in if necessary. Some mulch such as leaf mold can be added around them to prevent competition from weeds and grasses. Plugging is best done during the autumn, when the ground still retains some warmth, as this will lead to quick establishment of the roots. There is also less chance of drought or prolonged dry weather at this time of the year.
Pre-grown turf or meadow mat is another method of introducing wildflowers into your garden. The advantage of this method is you have control over the species you desire and the chances of success vastly increases. The obvious drawback is the cost of using turf, as it certainly isn’t cheap by any means.
What if my soil is too fertile?
As we have already mentioned perennial wildflowers do not perform well on fertile sites, which begs the question ‘How do I grow wildflowers if my soil is fertile?’ Well there are in fact a couple of avenues to explore.
Removing the top soil could be a viable option if the area is relatively small. All of the existing vegetation and top soil would have to be stripped away and removed, just leaving the subsoil, which should be low in fertility.
Once the top soil has been removed, the area would need to be topped up with a suitable infertile soil for growing perennial wildflowers. Wildflower soil that is low in fertility can be purchased for this purpose, but it could work out costly for larger areas.
Sowing with cornfield annuals is a popular method of creating a wildflower meadow, especially on fertile sites. The great thing about cornfield annuals is they flower in the first year of sowing.
That said, they have to be repeatedly sown year after year until a seed bank builds up in the soil. For more information on ground preparation, sowing and aftercare of cornfield annuals you can check out this page.
Including yellow rattle into your perennial seed mixture can help suppress the more aggressive grasses that come with seeding on a fertile soil. Yellow rattle is a semi parasitic wildflower that suppresses and weakens coarse grasses.
Yellow rattle attached itself to the roots of the unwanted grasses and draws the nutrients from them, allowing the wildflowers to flourish. If used correctly it can reduce coarse grasses and increase bi diversity in wild flower meadows.
Use a seed mixture for high soil fertility is another option. Mixtures can be purchased that will perform better on fertile soils.
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Recommended suppliers of wildflower seed mixtures
Although there may be many reputable companies that sell wildflower, I have had purchased mine from the following companies and have always been happy with the results.
